Dog agression

[RockysMom]

I need some advice....
Rocky is so friendly with people and the dogs he knows well.
BUT....he is very dog agressive with strange dogs.  I'd NEVER take him to an off leash park because I'm sure he would get seriously hurt when he attaked a larger dog (or a small dog who knows how to fight).
His reaction to other dogs strikes me as an anxiety reaction.
A good example was today.  ONe of my daughters friends came to the door this afternoon with their daschund (who was also very agressive).  Rocky went bananas.  Luckily we were able to scoop him up before it escalated, but it scared me.
We've tried to socialize him, but since he was very little he has had this reaction.
It's driving me up a wall!  I worry about him and what might happen if he comes in contact with the wrong dog! 
I've had people tell me to take him to an obedience class, but the problem is that I am not living in one city which means that he can only attend every other week and I"ve yet to find a program that can accomodate my schedule.  Any advice?

[clummy]

I am not sure what it would cost but it may be worth contacting Joan Weston (Blanche will have more details) but my understanding is she is very good with dog aggression, knows pugs and will do private training, which may be the solution since you are not able to do a class.

Good luck with it, I hope you can find a way to help Rocky with this.

[blanche]

Depending on what the basis of his aggression is, it likely is workable.  Google Fear aggression and Dog to dog aggression.  There are some good articles to help with it.

Alot of dog to dog aggression is fear based and some of it is lack of socialization--varies with the dog.  I can give you the contact info for Joan--but she's pretty far away from you.  However, it would be worth contacting her to ask about someone close to you that would be helpful. 

Has he ever done any obedience classes?  That is often a starting point for some dogs--assuming the class is small enough.  A big group of dogs to a dog aggressive dog is overwhelming.

[RockysMom]

Thanks Blanche.
I've contacted a couple of obedience training groups in the Kingston area and am waiting for them to call me back (thought that would be a good place to start as he has not had any).  I'm a little concerned though as I dont think that the dominance based training is the way to go right?  The last thing I want is someone trying to teach me about leash popping and how to hold him down to show him that I'm the dominate one.  I assume there are better methods???  What sorts of questions do I need to ask them before I sign him up?

[blanche]

Thanks Blanche.
I've contacted a couple of obedience training groups in the Kingston area and am waiting for them to call me back (thought that would be a good place to start as he has not had any).  I'm a little concerned though as I dont think that the dominance based training is the way to go right?  The last thing I want is someone trying to teach me about leash popping and how to hold him down to show him that I'm the dominate one.  I assume there are better methods???  What sorts of questions do I need to ask them before I sign him up?

You absolutely do NOT want to go with a dominance based training method.  I would suggest that you email Joan Weston (k9shrink@gmail.com) and ask her who is good in your area.

If that isn't a go for you, then start asking questions about what training methods they like and what trainers are they modeling their methods on--if they talk about Cesar Milan, Brad Pattiosn then you know they are dominance trainers.  If they talk about Pat Miller, Jean Donaldson then they are positive trainers.  Ask how they feel about using treats--dominance trainers almost never want you to use treats.  If they use the words "discipline", "correction" or "negative reinforcement" ask them to explain what they mean.  If they get into talking about wolf packs and the dominance models, then they are dominance trainers (and haven't read any of the research that de-bunks that model).
Ask about what kinds of equipment they use--do they use choke or porng collars?  Do they leash pop or suspend a lunging dog from the leash?
It can be hard to suss out who is a dominance trainer or not as the language is sometimes tricky.  Give examples of the kinds of issues you are having and how they would deal with it.

And last but not least, if at any time, YOU feel uncomfortable with the methods described or being used, then walk away. 

[RockysMom]

You absolutely do NOT want to go with a dominance based training method.  I would suggest that you email Joan Weston (k9shrink@gmail.com) and ask her who is good in your area.

If that isn't a go for you, then start asking questions about what training methods they like and what trainers are they modeling their methods on--if they talk about Cesar Milan, Brad Pattiosn then you know they are dominance trainers.  If they talk about Pat Miller, Jean Donaldson then they are positive trainers.  Ask how they feel about using treats--dominance trainers almost never want you to use treats.  If they use the words "discipline", "correction" or "negative reinforcement" ask them to explain what they mean.  If they get into talking about wolf packs and the dominance models, then they are dominance trainers (and haven't read any of the research that de-bunks that model).
Ask about what kinds of equipment they use--do they use choke or porng collars?  Do they leash pop or suspend a lunging dog from the leash?
It can be hard to suss out who is a dominance trainer or not as the language is sometimes tricky.  Give examples of the kinds of issues you are having and how they would deal with it.

And last but not least, if at any time, YOU feel uncomfortable with the methods described or being used, then walk away. 

Well....I signed us up for a class.  They claim they do not support dominance based training.  I expressed my concerns with that type of training and his first response was "that type of training may actually make your dog worse".  He claims they use praise and treats in order to train the dogs....no leash popping or pinning, no prong collars etc.  He mentioned Jean Donaldson's methods.

They agreed to let me use a harness instead of a collar (I never use a collar with Rocky).  Is this a mistake?  Should I get a collar?  He encouraged me to bring my daughter.  I found the discussion very encouraging. 

Our first class (beginner obedience) is on the 13th.  I'm quite sure that Rocky will act like a lunatic!  But they do have a separate room for any dogs who are overly anxious or need more one on one interaction.

I feel good about this......If I'm uncomfortable with their methods when I'm there I will simply leave.
Thanks Blanche for your advice!

[blanche]

Here's a somewhat long article about dealing with a reactive dog:
Reducing Reactive Dog Behavior
by Kathy Cascade
Note: This article is a summary of the concepts and exercises presented in the S.A.N.E. Solutions for Extreme Dog Behavior® Seminar.
Dealing with fearful, reactive, or aggressive dog behavior is certainly challenging and often a topic of heated debate. A snarling, lunging dog at the end of a leash can be intimidating and downright dangerous. Unfortunately, human reactions often worsen the problem, as do training and handling techniques that only serve to intensify the dog's fear and anxiety. With the increase in "dangerous dog laws" and the number of dogs labeled as "aggressive" surrendered to shelters, effective and respectful solutions to this problem are essential.
For the most part, I believe these reactive behaviors are based in fear and develop as a coping mechanism to stressful environmental triggers. (I prefer to use the term "reactivity" as it is actually more descriptive of a specific reaction, i.e. barking or growling that occurs in a specific environmental context. Labeling a dog "aggressive" is often loaded with judgment and may not be an accurate description of the dog's behavior the majority of time). The first priority of any animal (or person for that matter) is to feel safe. We are all aware of the instinctual "fight or flight" response to feeling threatened, but what happens when we take away the option to escape from the scary thing? Everything changes when a dog is held on a tight leash or cornered in a small, contained space. Nothing increases anxiety more than being "trapped" when feeling nervous or scared. Imagine how you would feel at your next dentist or doctor appointment if the technician strapped you to the chair for your procedure!
Dogs use a different language to tell us when they are feeling worried or nervous, so we must learn to observe their specific body language and more subtle communication signals. Turid Rugass has eloquently described what she refers to as "calming signals" that dogs use to communicate non-threatening intent to one another and to us. In her latest book, "For the Love of a Dog, Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best Friend", Patricia McConnell shares several great photographs of canine facial expressions and body language. From a TTouch perspective, we also know that posture and balance reflect emotional states. Recognizing these visual cues and responding to the dog's need to feel safe is the first step in a process I call "building trust one experience at a time."
Working with reactivity requires an integrated approach designed to help dogs (and people) reduce stress, build confidence, and become more adaptable. The goal is to give the dog a new experience of feeling safe, relaxed, and in control while in a challenging environment or in the presence of other dogs or people, which previously would have elicited a fearful response.
The S.A.N.E. Solutions for Extreme Dog Behavior® Seminar is a collection of concepts, tools, and exercises designed to accomplish the goals stated above. Tellington TTouch is one of the key components of this approach. We know that states of fear, anxiety, and arousal are associated with dramatic physiological changes in the body through the release of powerful hormones and neurochemicals. One of the most basic reactions is an increase in muscle tension throughout the body, which affects posture and movement. We can use TTouch bodywork to help reduce this physiological arousal and muscle tension, which underlies much reactive behavior.
Communicating in a non-threatening and effective manner is also critical to reducing dog reactivity and we need effective tools to help the dog learn new responses. The use of a head halter and/or harness with two points of contact allows us to remove pressure from the dog's neck (discussed below), and give more meaningful and subtle leash signals.
In order to give the dog an opportunity to feel safe while learning more appropriate responses to other dogs (or people), we need to engage the dog in a purposeful movement activity. Movement removes the feeling of being trapped, and with frequent pauses to experience a state of physical balance, we also influence emotional and mental balance. We can accomplish this using the TTouch Confidence Course®.
Reducing Reactivity: Keys to Success
•   Remove pressure from the neck.
One of the first and most important things we can easily do to help a dog feel more secure is to remove pressure from the dog's neck. Even the slightest pressure on the neck restricts the breath. In the moment of a fearful or anxious encounter (and this can include just looking at another dog or person), a sensation of choking or not being able to breathe only heightens the concern. In addition, one leash contact to a collar on the neck is not the most effective way to rebalance a dog that is pulling, straining, or leaning forward. The use of a head collar with a second point of contact on a harness or flat collar removes the possibility of constant tension on the neck and helps us to bring the dog back into a position of balance on all four feet. The head collar also allows us to encourage the dog to avert his eyes or slightly turn his head away from another dog (which is a calming signal to the other dog) with a very small signal.
•   Allow the dog to have enough space.
Space is the single most important factor to averting any reactive behavior and helping a dog feel safe! By paying very close attention to the dog's signals, we can quickly figure out where the spatial zone of comfort is for any particular dog. This allows us to start the process of slowly introducing another dog in the safe, systematic process described below. Often this is easier to accomplish in an outdoor setting, which allows for greater distance between dogs if needed.
•   Start with a neutral dog.
A neutral dog is one who is confident, uses appropriate calming signals, and most importantly, will not react to another dog "yelling" at him! Often a good neutral dog can illicit a calm response from another nervous or fearful dog without the handler having to do anything.
•   Check your own emotions.
It is important that the handler not react to the dog's reactions. This is not always easy if it is your own dog! Maintaining a calm, confident, and neutral emotional state when working with a reactive dog can greatly influence the dog's emotional state. Releasing tension from your body and being aware of your own balance/neutral pelvis position makes you much more effective in the event the dog does react or suddenly pulls you toward the other dog. A word of caution: If you do not feel confident working with dogs that are reactive to other dogs and/or especially to people, then I strongly advise you to get help from an experienced trainer or practitioner.
The Reactivity Reduction Exercise
As we often say in TTouch, we want to set the dog up to be successful. This means that we will do everything we can to create a situation that allows the dog to feel safe and does not illicit a fearful or aggressive reaction. Remember, adequate spacing will be the crucial factor. It is important to allow the fearful dog to look at the other dog. We all know that if something is scary, we want to know what it is doing and where it is! Allowing the dog to look for a few seconds can relieve his anxiety, however if the dog continues to stare or get aroused, then simply ask the dog to avert his eyes with a soft signal on the head halter. Moving or changing direction can also engage the dog's attention again
The question often arises about the use of food rewards in working with aggression and reactivity. Other methods use food as a primary distraction to keep a dog from looking at another dog, and avoid any reaction. I certainly endorse the mindful use of food and reward in training, and sometimes it is a very successful tool. However, food can also be over stimulating and our goal is to have the dog remain in a calm, relaxed and balanced physical state. I also believe that food as a distraction does not necessarily teach a dog to feel confident, but simply overrules the reaction for the moment. If the dog does not get over aroused with the food, then certainly it can also be used occasionally during the exercise.
Each step of this exercise is slightly more challenging and the decision to go to the next step will depend on the dog's reactions and our close observation of body language. It is also important to keep the sessions relatively short, usually lasting from ten to no more than twenty minutes.
Sequence of Steps    (Click on thumbnail to view larger picture).
                
•   Following the neutral dog at a safe distance in a large circular pattern. This can be done on the outer area of the confidence course. The handlers will walk the dogs for a few feet and then come to a momentary stop to allow the dogs to experience standing in nice balance with no tension on the leash. The pauses are short, and then the handlers begin walking again. (In the photo sequence above, we are working to reduce the German Shepard's reactivity).
•   Begin using the TTouch labyrinth. The first time through, the reactive dog enters the labyrinth just as the neutral dog is making the second turn and exiting. The dogs are not actually facing one another at any point. Gradually decrease the distance between the dogs. Another person can strategically step between the dogs at the point in the labyrinth where they face one another.
•   Walking in parallel. Now have both dogs walk over the poles in parallel with adequate distance between them. A third person can also walk between the dogs. Repeat this step a few times, gradually decreasing the distance between the dogs if possible. Allow the dogs to stop every few feet to stand in balance, and watch for calming signals. When the fearful dog exhibits calming signals and looks away from the other dog, I consider the exercise a great success!
•   Walking towards and then past the neutral dog. Again, a third person can assist by walking between the dogs if needed. You can also use cones as a partial barrier. Gradually have the dogs come to a stop facing one another briefly if possible.
•   Always stop the exercise when you hear that little voice in your head saying, "Wow this is really going well. Maybe we should let the dogs greet one another." I say this with a little humor, but seriously, it is important to stop with success and not try to push too far. It is also not critical that the dogs greet one another, and I rarely do this within the training session. You may also introduce a second dog and begin the process again as the next step in the progression.
In addition to helping a fearful dog feel more confident in the presence of other dogs, I have used this exercise to introduce bicycles, skateboards, horses, and even men wearing funny hats!
One Last Consideration
While this approach is a positive and effective method to help dogs develop confidence and better coping skills, any dog that has exhibited extreme reactive behavior or has a bite history is always a management risk. It is important that people understand this responsibility and recognize the commitment involved in working with a dog with these issues.
© 2006 Kathy Cascade

[blanche]

As far as I'm concerned, Angela, they gave all the right answers--and there's no point in training a dog in equipment that you don't use--like a collar.  Better than he and you learn your stuff in a harness.  And I'm not an advocate of collars for pugs in any case.

[Poconut]

Good luck with your obedience class!  I haven't had to deal with dog aggression, but have loved taking classes with good trainers - it's a lot of fun and I'm always surprised at how well the dogs do!  They always seem to surpass our expectations.  Hopefully Rocky will become more comfortable around strange dogs.   

[keep on pugging]

Is it with all dogs or certain ones only, like big ones?

[wildwoodvictoria]

Jackson is the classic reactive dog. We had Joan Weston come for a session and she gave me some exercises that really helped. The best was a focus first class. It primarily had Jackson  pay attention to me (and the food in my hand) over everything else around him. The key for us has been the "leave it" command. If he gets excited about another dog, he hears leave it and looks at me, gets his treat, and we walk away if he can't smell and settled down with the new dog
.
Better, but not cured. The wildwood gang knows that there are just some big black dogs Jackson will never get along with, regardless of what the treat. I just have to keep my eyes peeled at the dog park and leash him and leave if I see a problematic dog coming.

[blanche]

You've done an outstanding job with him, Victoria.  Really deserve big credit for the work you and Jackson have put into it.

[RockysMom]

Is it with all dogs or certain ones only, like big ones?

It is with

Is it with all dogs or certain ones only, like big ones?

It's with all dogs whether big or small.  He goes absolutely bananas.  I am constantly amazed at how strong he is.  He nearly wrecked my back when he took off in the opposite direction I was walking one day....I twisted and wrenched my lower back......little rat!  Can't wait for these classes to start.  I really  hope they help.

[keep on pugging]

It is with
It's with all dogs whether big or small.  He goes absolutely bananas.  I am constantly amazed at how strong he is.  He nearly wrecked my back when he took off in the opposite direction I was walking one day....I twisted and wrenched my lower back......little rat!  Can't wait for these classes to start.  I really  hope they help.

Do you think he wants to "do battle" or just "overly excited" to see them? 

[RockysMom]

Do you think he wants to "do battle" or just "overly excited" to see them? 

That is a good question and I think he is overly excited and just completely over reacts and puts the other dogs on the defensive.....which seems to escalate the situation.  I admit that it scares me and I'm sure that he senses my anxiety which makes it even worse.  Clearly I need help learning how to deal with this.  Hopefully the training I get from this will prove invaluable!!